Circle Around Komovi

In addition to the already well-known paths that lead to the three main and most attractive peaks of Komovi – Vasojevićki (2461m), Kučki (2487m) and Ljevorečki Kom (2463m), in the immediate vicinity of this magical mountain there are many hiking trails that are also exciting and beautiful but are somewhat less known or completely unknown to hikers and tourists. One such trail is the circular trail around Komovi, in recent years more and more known and appreciated, but still non-valorized for tourism purposes.

The trail around Komovi has a story much older than present-day mountain-recreational stories and actually it was long ago famous as shepherds’ key route which – as long as cattle breeding was the dominant way of life in our villages and katuns were very much alive – connected the Montenegrin clans of Kuci,  Bratonozici and Vasojevici and their numerous katuns spread all over the highlands of Komovi. Frequent passing of farmers and their cattle paved this trail, not hiking boots of mountaineers. It was used by locals to visit their friends and family, to reach the sites where fairs were organized, for trading and for wars. Dukes and pashas passed through here, outlaws and their leaders. Guards. Highlands around Komovi and the mountain itself where the scene of turbulent historical events and rich social and katun life. All that remained today to silently witness the past are numerous abandoned farmers’ huts and still preserved nature that continuously attracts adventurers.

The route starts from Stavna (1720m), although it is possible to start from one of the katuns of Popovici (Carine, 1870m), Pricelje or Ljuban, in any direction, it makes no difference. However, the easiest option in terms of accommodation and access is Stavna, so it is the most usual starting point.

From Stavna the trail passes next to Janko’s water, down into the valley of Ljubaštica river which was formed by melting of glaciers in Medjukomlje, and from the river a steep path leads up, through dense forest, towards grass covered Ljuban and its katuns. On Ljuban, at the location called Bjelaga, you pass next to mysterious old tombstones that withstand the harshness of time and intrigue passers-by and tourists. They represent the memory of the tragic events of two centuries ago when this area was in turmoil, when various outlaws gangs looted the cattle from here. According to the old stories, two shepherds whose remains were buried forever in Ljuban, who were killed in one of those looting missions, were aveneged the following year when the same group of outlaws from Moraca came for new looting mission here.

From Ljuban the trails continues towards Rogam plateau, through the west side of Ljevorečki and Kučki Kom, through Rogamska cirque, next to Crnja spring and Crni izvori – black springs (Rogamsko vrelo)which is the best source of drinking water on Komovi mountain. This is extremely beautiful and attractive section of this trail, with fantastic view on steep and breathtaking cliffs of these two peaks of Komovi. From Crni izvori the trail continues to climb the steep side of Rogamski peak, all the way to Rogam plateau (2113m) which extends north all the way to Ljevorecke rupe and represents a very attractive hiking section that can lead further all the way to the village of Bare Kraljske. Very soon you get to the pass called Cafa od Pricelja (2105m), from where you can conquer Rogamski peak (2303m) and Suvovrh (2211m). This ridge offers a beautiful view of the Rogam and Pričelje katun(1810m), on the other side the whole Carine cirque and all surrounding mountains. This is where the second part of the route starts.

From the pass we quickly descend into Popovici katun (1860m), which was one of the largest katuns in Carine long ago, and is today full of ruins of old farmers huts. Famous Montenegrin duke Marko Miljanov used to have his own hut here. Within the katun one of the huts has been transformed into mountaineers lodge, it is always open for any passer-by to spend the night or take shelter from bad weather, and very close to it there is a spring of drinking water.

From Carine we continue through the east slopes of Vasojevicki Kom, through Borovi pod all the way to the hill called Varda, where Vasocevici clan used to have their watchtowers, and just beneath it there is a katun with the same name, where farmers from village Japan used to bring their cattle. In this zone the trail gowe through true wilderness, and almost all the time you will have a beautiful view of cross-border mountains and wild valley of Mojanska river.

The final, easy section of the trail goes from Varda (1727m) through beech forest called Macak where you will find several water springs, and finally, after this whole day adventure, it will take you back to Stavna. Here you can have a relaxing evening in Eko katun Stavna, enjoying divine, traditional Montenegrin cuisine.

The circular route around Komovi is an obligatory hiking destination for all fans of Komovi and for those just getting to know this mountain, the mountain that the poets named the king among mountains. Anyone fit for longer hiking will be able to take this route, and the trail is safe as long as you follow the basic mountaineering rules.

Exploration of this trail has been supported by National Tourism Organisation of Montenegro.